![]() When pushed against an object, the pins conform to the object’s shape, creating a mold that can be used to trace cutlines on flooring, tile, and other material. These simple but invaluable tools resemble a comb with a long row of thin pins. Rather than using a piece of paper and pencil to trace the shape, or applying an obscure equation from high school trigonometry, consider using a contour gauge. Remember to counter-sink for the heads of the screws.Whether you’re installing flooring, siding, tile, or some other material, you may eventually run into a door frame, set of pipes, or odd-shaped trim that you’ll need to work around. However, adding a couple of #4 x 1/2″ flat-head brass screws adds a nice touch. While there are no stresses being placed between the hardwood body and brass plate, the epoxy should be more than strong enough to secure the two. Threading a 1/4-20 brass bolt into the insert nut before this operation will keep the female threads from being damaged. As our depth rod is 1/8″ and we want it to slide smoothly, drill a 9/64″ hole from top to bottom. Apply a bit of wax to the threads of the nut and screw it in, making sure to keep it straight. You’ll also want to secure the gauge during the boring process. Use a block underneath your blank to keep the body perpendicular to the drill bit. Next, use a 3/8″ bit and drill 1/2″ deep into the face of the gauge for the insert nut at your marked point. Take care to keep it flat and not create a wedge. Once the epoxy has cured, lightly sand the brass bottom of the gauge using 280x sandpaper. Mix a small batch of 5-minute epoxy and lightly clamp the brass plate to the blank, making sure there is over-hang around your drawn shape. Sand one face of the plate with 120x sandpaper, leaving a rough surface for the adhesive to bond to. The extra width and length allows you to flush all the surfaces down the road. ![]() Center the insert nut, making sure to leave enough material around it so as to not split the wood when screwing it home.Ĭut your brass plate adding 1/16″ on all sides with a hacksaw. The depth rod’s hole is centered across the thickness of the blank, in this case 3/8″. Continue your center line onto the blank and draw crosshairs marking the location of the depth rod’s through-hole and the location of the insert nut. Draw a pleasing shape on some graph paper, cut it out and attach it to your blank with either double- sided tape or spray adhesive. Black walnut adds a nice bit of contrast to brass, but most solids – especially exotics – look great beside brass. ![]() The extra length is just so the blank can be power-planed to thickness. Mill a piece of hardwood to 3/4″ x 1-1/2″ x 12″. The process of creating a depth gauge is not difficult, but requires a specific order of operations. Lee Valley Tools will have the rest including 1/4-20 insert nuts (00M90.01), a 1/4-20 knurled screw (00M91.01) and a 1/4-20 brass bolt (44Z09.03) but these items are also available at other specialty hardware stores across the country. ![]() The shortest these come are usually 12″ and should cost about $5 and $2, respectively. You’ll also need to pick up a 1/8″ diameter brass rod. Your local metal supplier, or craft shop, will have some 1/8″ thick flat brass 1″ wide. As with most projects that require hardware, it’s a good idea to have it on hand before starting.
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